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February 03, 2010

2007 St Aubin 1er cru Clos du Meix from Olivier Lamy - Allen Meadows' Burghound Raves with a 91


  Olivier Lamy holds a bottle of his wine

"This is almost like a very cool and classic Chassagne Montrachet with its resin, straw and floral nose that gives way to detailed, pure, racy and very stony flavors that are attractively energetic on the mouth coating, complex and bone dry finish. This is a lovely effort with impeccable balance. Recommended. 91/2012+" -Allen Meadows, Burghound

Allen Meadows goes on to say:

"While it's almost hard to believe, after how good Lamy's '06s were [I believe the words for his '06s were "flat-out terrific"], he's done even better in 2007. These wines offer incredible quality for the price."

I take what I can get of Olivier Lamy's fantastic white Burgundies. It's never enough and it's always a minute quantity. Olivier Lamy's St Aubin 1er cru Clos du Meix hangs most Chassagne-Montrachet out to dry (at 2/3 the price)

Neal Martin who works with Robert Parker also crows over his glass of 2007 Clos du Meix and gives it the coveted 90.

"Tasted at the Domaine. From a rocky soil near the village church, this is stubbornly closed on the nose, reluctantly giving up scents of morning dew and a little apple. The palate is taut with vibrant green apples, lime and citrus lemon, tingly mouth-feel, vibrant and racy with impressive harmony and focus towards the finish. Moderate length. Leaves the mouth dry and fresh, looking for the next sip. Very fine. Drink now-2015."

Olivier Lamy (and a few other growers like Henri Boillot at a much higher price) want to make wines that are the finest expression of Chardonnay you can find anywhere. And they are doing it! And, Olivier is doing it in St Aubin, (which borders Puligny & Chassagne Montrachet) an appellation that some people have never heard of!

St Aubin is a small hamlet of 300 residents backed into a limestone slope high in the hills west of Chassagne Montrachet. The village is very old with origins back to 1000.

The soil in these sites is nearly pure limestone and the wines produced are a very succinct expression of their terroir. These are wines that have some ageing capability just like Meursault, Chassagne Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet without their much higher per bottle price tags.

The Lamys have lived in St Aubin since the 1600s. It's a father and son operation, but Olivier is in charge now. He took over the Domaine from his father in 1996. Olivier stopped selling their wine to the cooperatives and actually pulled up his marginal vines, leaving just the best vines in his best parcels.

Olivier keeps his yields very low, uses a sorting table to select only the ripest grapes for the vat and uses a judicious amount of new oak so the fruit is not overwhelmed. He hardly ever fines or filters.

Lamy's wines are admittedly not inexpensive, but if you want to experience the raciness and style that only a white Burgundy can offer and still maintain a little bulge in your wallet, Lamy is your man. Cynthia Hurley

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