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The entrance to the pristine Domaine Kubler in Soultzmatt.
"After earning his oenology degree from Bordeaux, and a stage at Cloudy Bay, young Philippe Kubler - whom I did not have occasion to visit - took over at his family's domaine beginning with the 2004 vintage. Based on the several samples that reached me while in Alsace from his second harvest, this is a vigneron to watch." - Robert Parker
The nose of Kubler's Pinot Gris is powerful and warm with the aroma of smoked apricots. The mouth is full and richly textured with layers of toasted bread and exotic fruit. There is a long and velvety finish. The wine is luxurious without being sweet.
Sugar Kills. That's what Tom Stevenson says in his Wine Report 2008. There is no room for sweet wine in Alsace other than vendage tardive and selection de grains nobles which are prized, specialty wines in a different category.
I agree, and that's the attitude I carried with me into Alsace a while ago, looking for a spectacular Pinot Gris. Too many growers are appealing to the tastes of their German neighbors who travel over the border and load their trunks with Alsatian wine.



