Chateau Saint Marc Sauternes 2003

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The Saunternes grapes just before harvesting. The source of this very unique late harvest wine

This fall I was down to my last few bottles of Sauternes and realized that this was an unacceptable situation.

Could I reasonably expect my Roquefort to go stag to the Holiday feast when it is common knowledge that this Blue and Sauternes are an item? I had to do something and fast so I booked a flight to Bordeaux and went hunting for the luscious golden moldie and found Chateau Saint Marc.

Sauternes is a wine-growing area about 45 minutes south of Bordeaux. There are only five communes whose grapes can be bottled with Sauternes on the label: Fargues, Preignac, Bommes, Sauternes, and Barsac. Barsac which lies to the north of the other villages has its own appellation and can put Barsac or Sauternes on the label. St Marc is a Barsac.

Barsac/Sauternes is a nectarous libation created by picking grapes that have been afflicted with the mold: botrytis cinerea. The mold attacks each ripe grape, devouring the grape skin and causing the grape to become dehydrated and shrivel. This results in superconcentration of the grape's juice and a high sugar content and wonderful concentrated flavors of peach, fig, melon and more. This "sweetness" is balanced by a racy acidity that make this wonderful juice delicious with many foods- or all by itself.

Sauternes is expensive to make because the pickers must pass through the vineyard several times to catch the grapes at their peak rotten moment. The famous Sauternes cost $100 a bottle and way more than that if you're talking about Chateau d'Yquem. Now, this is tough to stomach if you're as fuzzy over the peachy stuff as I am. But, I also know from experience that with persistence I could find an under- valued gem with a very sweet price tag.

Chateau Saint Marc has been owned by the Laulan family for four generations. The wine is elegant and at the same time powerful. The grapes are painstakingly selected by as often as five passes through the vineyard. Saint Marc is 85% Semillon which is the grape which provides solidity and makes the wine capable of aging for a long time. There is 12% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend which provides the fragrance and vivacity and 3% Muscadelle which adds a certain floweriness to the wine. It is classic Sauternes: rich, peachy, and lingering.

Vintage counts in Sauternes, 2003 is an especially successful year because of the intense heat which delivered very ripe grapes. 2003 is what we were hunting for and that is what we found. Here is what Parker has to say about the 2003s:

"The 2003s appear to be somewhat in the style of the 1990s, with high levels of residual sugar (higher than 2001 for the most part) as well as botrytis, low acidity, and fat, full- bodied personalities. This region's harvest began extremely early (early September), and was completely finished within three weeks. Readers who like the big, flamboyant, over the top style of the 1990s will enjoy the 2003s even more than I did." R Parker

All of this is making me want to head for the cellar and uncork a Sauternes. And, you don't have to have Roquefort or foie gras (another classic pairing) on hand to make a Sauternes soar. Traditionally, of course it is drunk after dinner before or with with dessert. I drink it as an aperitif or make a little Barsac swimming pool in a half melon. Sauternes is no one-trick pony.

So there you have it. If you have never seriously thought about owning some Sauternes, you should. A good Sauternes makes you feel civilized. Never a bad thing. Cynthia Hurley

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