Domaine des Deux Roches St Veran (White Burgundy) Beautiful Chardonnay Expression From one of the Best Sources
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The Collovrey & Terrier Families in their St Veran Vineyards
"Fine, subtle St Veran from this domain provides excellent value for money." Andrew Jefford, The New France
There's a buzz about St Veran that should be scaring Meursault a bit. The quality here is coming on strong and any slackers in Meursault had better watch out. Why spend $40 a bottle when you can get the same fleshy luxury for less than half that in St Veran. Sure, you have to look carefully, but with Domaine des Deux Roches in your glass you'll come out ahead.
I consider Domaine des Deux Roches one of my most important conquests of 2007 . I first tasted this wine more than ten years ago. It was absolutely head and shoulders better than any Macon at the time, but when I asked to import it, I was turned down; someone else had gotten there before me and snagged the big exclusive importing contract. I tried again and again periodically but always the same. Sorry "No wine available".
During the same period Deux Roches built a reputation for outstanding quality in St Veran making my pursuit increasingly challenging. But, I kept trying and this March when I phoned the estate, I got a guarded, but more encouraging response.
I was told I could come and visit and taste and then, perhaps, just perhaps, the conversation might drift into a discussion about a small allocation for me" (us). I jumped at the chance and was there a few weeks later in the tasting room with my lips on their St Veran Tradition. Oh, the silkiness and the fruit, so unrestrained. The aromas wafted. The flavors were fresh and pure - citrus, apple and honey. The color shimmered gold in the glass.
As I tasted the wine, I knew I could easily have been tippling in the Cote d'Or. I was tasting the 2005 and this, of course, only makes the line between the big whites to the north and my St Veran even more blurry. The wines from 2005 are richer than normal with citrusy, peachy little undertones and melons. But, the thing I love about St Veran is its absolute purity. There is nothing flabby here. It is concise with great lively acidity. This St Veran is aged in stainless steel tanks with absolutely no wood used. This enhances the fruity freshness.
The Collovray and Terrier families created the Domaine des Deux Roches in 1986 in the Maconnais wine region, south of the Cote d'Or. Deux Roches refers to the two gigantic rock cliffs that punctuate the landscape here: Vergisson and Solutre. The estate is in the village of Davaye which is considered the best source of St Veran. The St Veran vineyards are to the north and the south of the Pouilly Fuisse vineyards but the northern vineyards make the best wines and this is where Davaye is.
It is interesting to me that St Veran was intended to be part of Pouilly Fuisse when that area received its AOC back in the 30's, but St Veran rejected the idea. Most growers were making red wine back then and they didn't think it would be an advantageous fit. Also appellations were a new concept and St Veran was a feisty small bunch of growers who feared the government was going to start butting into their business.
It wasn't until 1971 that St Veran received its official AOC. This reinvigorated the area convincing many of the growers to stop selling in bulk and start bottling their own wines. The growers started taking a greater interest in quality and better vineyard practices.
Here's what Jean-Luc Terrier says about his winemaking:
"We reverted with passion to the traditional methods of our grandfathers as if they were something new and extraordinary. Here we are, making our own compost again instead of using chemical fertilizers. And far from boosting yields, we prune severely and then go out into the vineyards again in summer to thin the fruit for perfect ripeness and better quality."
La Revue du Vin de France considers Domaine des Deux Roches one of the best St Veran out there:
"A mover and a shaker of St Veran. One of the most important properties, this estate makes wines that are technically impeccable, reliable with a reasonable price."
It's six o'clock. I'm ready to spend some quality time with my St Veran. Won't you join me? Cynthia Hurley
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