Pierre Gaillard’s 2005 St Joseph Clos de Cuminaille, 100% Syrah (Limited).

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Pierre Gaillard in his cellars near Ampuis (St Joseph)

“The saying “aout fait le mout ” (August makes the vintage) was truer in the Rhone than even in Bordeaux or Burgundy and produced, in 2005, wines of great intensity with a balancing freshness of acidity. The wines have immediate appeal that belies their ageing capacity. Lovers of this 100% Syrah must cellar a few cases.” Steven Spurrier of Decanter Magazine goes on to pick his favorites from his tastings of the 2005 Northern Rhones:

“My picks of the tastings (Spurrier chose 7 wines) were Pierre Gaillard’s spicy, oaked St Joseph Clos de Cuminaille (his second pick was Pierre’s Cote Rotie Rose Pourpre 2005 (we also have this wine in stock – please ask for it).

It has been my experience that Gaillard torpedoes the competition time and time again. When he uncorks, within 15 minutes a crowd gathers with out- stretched glasses. There is something about the wine’s glorious, round, sweetness that is just extraordinary. Pierre’s absolute submission to quality is in every molecule of his wines.

“Without wavering, Pierre Gaillard turns out quality wines. For the past several years, this dynamic and intelligent wine maker has turned out passionate wines which win hearts in their youth and lack for nothing in terms of future potential. Gaillard’s wines are some of the surest values in the Rhone. All of Pierre’s wines are a testiment to the know-how of Gaillard and there is not a single weakness in the bunch.” La Revue du Vins de France 2007

I visited Pierre in April. It was a hard-going jaw- dropping hour climbing the back hills north of Ampuis in the Northern Rhone to reach his domaine in the hamlet of Malleval. From ancient chimneys, puffs of smoke from wood fires wafted across the landscape. Every once in a while an old church clanged out a few chimes. I was stuck in a time long ago.

But, inside Pierre’s hilltop tasting room all was modern and smelled of new wood. In a gesture that shows his deep respect for nature he had incorporated rocks, stones, and roots into his architecture as if conceding that while new technology was necessary to make the best wine, he really wanted to fade into the landscape and not disrupt nature’s work.

Pierre Gaillard has earned his top tier ranking in the Rhone through hard work. He toiled alongside Guigal in the ’80s to help create Guigal’s La Turque which is a benchmark vineyard in Cote Rotie with bottles going for $800 a bottle (if you can find one). Gaillard scraped together money for his first parcel of land in the St Joseph region in the village of Chavanay in 1981. The plot was called Clos de Cuminaille . The land had a 30 degree slope to it, but he was able to carve out some terraces so he could use a tractor.

For newcomers to the appellation, St Joseph is part of the northern Rhone which is just to the south of Lyon. The northern Rhone includes such well-known appellations as Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Cornas. St Joseph covers about 50 kilometers and runs in a thin line along the west bank of the Rhone River. St Joseph reds are 100% Syrah. The wines tend to have a very rich color which includes some violet and possesses aromas of black currant and raspberry with sometimes some hints of leather and licorice.

If I had to live with only one appellation from the northern Rhone, it would probably be St Joseph. I seem to find more wines that excite me here than anywhere else. And, if I had to stick with one grower, it would be Pierre Gaillard.

“The 2005 St.-Joseph Clos de Cuminaille is a beautiful deep ruby/purple-colored wine with expressive notes of camphor, black cherry liqueur and a hint of even deeper, darker fruits. The pain grille from new oak barrels is present in this medium to full-bodied, pure wine which has good acidity and plenty of length.” Robert Parker The Wine Advocate

Gaillard labors over his wines. He punches the cap daily and pumps over the juice for the maximum amount of skin contact. He believes in a long maceration and micro-oxygenation to smooth out the tannins. His yields seem impossibly low and he never filters so more flavor ends up in your glass. His wines are titanic. They need to be in your cellar. Cynthia Hurley

The Details

Pierre Gaillard, St Joseph Clos de Cuminaille 2004 6 bottles $215, 12 bottle case, $417 ($34.75) Only 8 cases available

Pierre Gaillard, St Joseph Tradition 2005 12 bottle case, $324 ($26.99) Only 2 cases available

Mixed Case 6 bottles of each wine $371.88 ($30.99)

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