La Route du Vin: Domaine Stella Nova: Two Stunning Biodynamic Reds from the Coteaux de Languedoc: France's Most Dynamic Wine Region

The wild and untamed Coteaux de Languedoc around Pezenas Photo: Claes Lofgren

The Languedoc Roussillon is France's current last wine frontier - wild and rugged and gorgeous. The best wines from here are fearlessly rich and deep with berry flavors and structure which will stand up to your grilled meats and spicy, piquant sauces.

I couldn't wait to get down to the Languedoc Roussillon. I spent ten days on large sun-drenched plains that reminded me of Chile and winding through dizzying gorges that looked like Colorado. The vines were everywhere and the wines were good. There is a quality revolution going on down here that is amazing.

Domaine Stella Nova is one of these stunning estates caught up in this tenacious effort to make great wine and earn a legitimate place in the wine world. They are doing it! It's all there in the wine.

The wines from Domaine Stella Nova are Rhone-like - made from Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan grapes. So if you like pure fruit expression, and the headiness of Cotes du Rhone, these are for you.

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Guide Hachette One of the most reliable of the French Wine Guides, gives Stella Nova a star and reports that from the beginning "they were a domaine to watch" - citing the wine's intense color, toastiness, ample mouth-filling flavors and solid structure.

La Revue du Vin de France, The most respected French Wine Magazine, spouts similar enthusiasm talking about a "rare fruity freshness" and "powerful mouth impression" and a "lasting chocolatey finish".

How lucky I was to stumble upon these wonders. I instantly connected with them!

The vineyards of Domaine Stella Nova are in the wine growing area of Pezenas which is in the appellation of Coteaux de Languedoc. The Coteaux de Languedoc is one of the most dynamic and interesting wine areas in France today. It's growing reputation and best wines really come from a few sub-areas (like St Chinian and Pic St Loup) that have been singled out with their own appellations because of the high quality and distinctiveness of their growing areas.

The exciting news is that Pezenas has just been awarded its own appellation and will join this elite group as of 2006. This designation comes with the acknowledgement of Pezenas' superior terroir in large part due to the Pezenas growers and their passion for making great wine.

Domaine Stella Nova is a new estate and the owners have come with modern ideas and very high standards and applied them to their superior terroir. The estate is small - just under 9 hectares (a bit over 20 acres). The soil at Domaine Stella Nova is varied throughout the vineyard - stony, with some clay. The manageable size of the vineyard permits the owner and wine maker, Philippe Richy, to be totally involved in every aspect of his vineyard and winemaking. One of his first decisions was to raise his grapes biodynamically - no herbicide or chemical treatments. At the heart of Philippe's winemaking is a deep respect for nature and the environment.

The yields are low (really low) and the grapes are carefully scrutinized to eliminate inferior ones. The harvest is by hand which protects the skins of the grapes. This is the absolute key to great winemaking - low yields for concentrated fruit and high selection so only the best grapes go into the final blend. All of these steps take time and are expensive but are the keys to making great wine.

There are two cuvees at Stella Nova: Les Pleiades (a Gold Medal Winner in Paris) and Sirius. Les Pleiades is a more structured wine than Sirius, perhaps owing to its Syrah component and selective use of small oak barrels. The Syrah grape going into Les Pleiades is the same as the grape used for the very expensive Cote Rotie and Hermitage in the Rhone Valley. Both Stella Nova wines are quite serious, however, and the yields of 25 and 30 hectoliters per hectare are amazing considering the price of the wine. Only half of Les Pleiades is raised in barrels and aged for 18 months. The wine is neither fined nor filtered. Sirius is raised 100% in tank with a very light filtration. The Sirius is undeniably a great wine for its price. I have been drinking it all summer. Pleiades is a serious wine that can rival far more pedigreed wines. It will last for quite a while and will benefit from aging.

So, go a little wild and think outside the Bordeaux and Burgundy box and try a little Languedoc Roussillon. You'll be amazed. Cynthia Hurley

The Details:

Domaine Stella Nova, Sirius Coteaux de Languedoc 2004 12 bottle case, $209.88 ($17.49)

Domaine Stella Nova, Les Pleiades Coteaux de Languedoc 2004 12 bottle case, $286.88 ($23.49)

Save $20 Case of each wine Sirius & Les Pleiades $ 476.76 ($19.86)

Mixed 12 bottle Case 6 bottles of each wine $249