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January 04, 2008

A 100% Malbec Rosé from Clos Triguedina: The Most Famous & Respected Domaine in Cahors

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Jean Luc Baldes inspecting his Malbec Harvest at Clos Triguedina

Clos Triguedina Rosé My wine was the color of a sunset at the beach. I know because I raised my glass to the sinking sun and the color exactly matched a salmon streak that had spread across the sky.

Oh, Rosé why were you so unloved for such a long time when you alone have the power to put summer into our hearts; a Chardonnay, a Sauvignon Blanc -- so pale beside your evocative rosiness. Can you tell I have a glass in my hand right now?

I mentioned in a recent email that I had come back to Rosé - not because Rosé is hot in the Hamptons or in Cannes, (which it is) but because Rosé today is not like the Rosé of yore when it was made from leftover grapes. Rosé is now being made from special parcels of land and vinified like a special and important cuvee of regular red wine.

The best Rose is made by pressing the grapes. The juice is then allowed to sit with the grapes skins picking up color, but also tannins, pectins, and proteins which give the wine structure. Then the juice is drained off, put into another vat without the skins and fermented. This is called saignée.


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I recently went traveling around France for a Rosé and found two. The first one arrived a few weeks ago and sold out immediately. The second Rosé has just arrived this week. It comes from Domaine Clos Triguedina in Cahors which is a magically beautiful spot along the Lot River. The Lot wriggles like a serpent through southwest France. Cahors is a very old wine town to the east of Bordeaux. Planted by the Romans, the people of Cahors were making wine when the Bordelais were still sloshing beer.

The wines of Clos Triguedina are perhaps my favorites in Cahors. They are rich, solid and chewy with wonderful black cherry notes. The estate is run by Jean-Luc Baldes who is the eighth generation to be in charge and he has made his mark. He completely modernized all aspects of the winery.

Jean-Luc is famous for what he does with his Malbec grapes. Malbec, you probably know, has become very popular recently as the principle grape of Argentine wine. Cahors is the source of Malbec and at Clos Triguedina reaches its full expression. Jean-Luc's Rosé is 100% Malbec .

Jean-Luc's Rosé which he calls Vin de Lune is very fruity with lovely flavors of strawberry, raspberry, white peach with a little hint of anise. The best part is its nervousness. It has wonderful acidity that gives you a little poke on the tongue as you drink it the way the best Rosés are supposed to. Beware the flabby Rosé, sparks must fly!

And yes, it is not surprising that our Vin de Lune was named one of the best Rosés in all of France by La Revue du Vin de France. "Quel fruit!" was their parting comment and they are on target. Dare to buy a case. This Rosé will give you an express trip right to summer and deliver a few good, old memories along the way. Cynthia Hurley

The Details:

Domaine Clos Triguedina Vin de Lune Rose 2005 12 bottle case $167.88 ($13.99)

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