In the Cotes du Rhone (Visan)
Olivier Cuilleras - Cotes du Rhone Village-Visan, cuvée Louise-Amelie, 2001
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The Hilly Cotes du Rhone Villages Vineyards around Visan
"The terrific 2001 performs well above its humble origin. A deep ruby/color is followed by sweet aromas of raspberry and cherry liqueur intermixed with subtle hints of vanilla and licorice. Chewy, deep, and full-bodied, with copious intensity as well as texture, it will drink well for 5-10 years. These are exceptionally impressive offerings, and may be the finest wines produced in the northern Cotes du Rhone village of Visan. Great Values." outstanding wine of exceptional complexity, Robert Parker The Wine Advocate 2/28/ 03.
Only a few weeks ago, I was sitting in Olivier's hilltop tasting room which overlooks the village and vineyards of Visan and tasting through his excellent Cotes du Rhone Villages.
Provence had been doing its usual dance of seduction on my soul for several days with its warm breezes in the seventies, herb- infused culinary ambrosias, the aromas of fruits and minerals wafting up from the glass. But, even with all of this spectacular backdrop of persuasion it was clear that I had stumbled upon a very talented wine maker who makes wines that stand out.
After growing up working with his father Olivier went off to Montpellier the French UC Davis. After graduating he headed to the Northern Rhone for several years. Oliver returned home after several years in the North. His father retired and Olivier's first vintage was in 2000. This was a major transition for the estate and the family. While the family estate is on one of the best areas of Visan (it is an ancient vineyard site and is on top of a large hill with excellent exposure) his father had always sold his grapes to the cooperative which was the way back then. Olivier had other ideas. He wanted to make his own wine and put the name Cuilleras on the label and on the map. That is exactly what he has done.
I have great deal of respect for La Revue du Vin de France, the Wine Advocate of the Old World. Each year, the RVF editors put out a hard-covered book in which they include what they consider to be the best wines in France. Of course, Olivier Cuilleras was included. Here's what they said:
"Oliver Cuilleras is one of the best representatives for the wines from Visan, one of the chosen lands for Grenache. His Visan - as much cuvée Louise-Amelie as the Vieille Vigne - are solid and savory Cotes du Rhones. The Visans rouge 2001 succeeded and beyond that, the 2001 cuvée Louise-Amelie achieved an extra level of exceptional power, density, and depth." La Revue du Vin de France 2004 edition
La Revue bestowed a very big 8 out of 10 for this wine -- an extraordinary feat that many wines at a multiple of the price and from vineyards of much fancier pedigree were unable to duplicate. Olivier Cuilleras is a find!
Cuvée Louise-Amelie is mostly Grenache with about 10% Syrah. The wine spends 15 months in wood -- not new wood -- that would overwhelm the terroir. The tannins are well- integrated. There is a hint of exotique orange zest on the palate. This wine has pure fruit with just the right amount of lively acidity.
A few words about Visan. There are 96 communes (wine- growing areas) in the southern Rhone that have the right to put Cotes du Rhone Villages (as opposed to just Cotes du Rhone) on its bottles, but only 16 communes are legally allowed to add the name of the village to the label -- like Rasteau, Cairanne, Seguret -- to name a few where the best Cotes du Rhone Villages come from. And, now there is Visan.
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